Double-Breasted vs Single-Breasted Suits

There’s a moment when a man stands in front of the mirror and sees not just a suit, but a version of himself. Subtle shifts in cut, lapel, and colour carry meaning, and it all begins in choosing either a single or double-breasted suit.

If you’re weighing up your options, this guide is designed to help you make an informed choice and to show you how bespoke tailoring can ensure either option works perfectly for you.

At Andrew Brookes Tailoring, we’ve guided countless clients through this moment with craft, clarity, and respect for individual choice. Let’s explore.

Understanding Suit Styles

What is a Double-Breasted Suit?

Traditionally worn for more formal occasions, a double-breasted suit features two columns of buttons, with the front panels overlapping. It’s structured, formal, and makes a confident impression.

Born from a military uniform and brought into peacetime elegance, the double-breasted jacket offers structure with its broad shoulders, peak lapels, and a geometry that flatters the tall and lends stature to the modest. It is now associated with classic menswear.

What is a Single-Breasted Suit?

The single-breasted suit is simpler by design, but by no means lesser. Its restraint is its strength. With a single line of buttons and minimal overlap, it’s the suit that moves between rooms and roles without fuss.

Known for its clean lines and flattering fit, it suits most body types and adapts well to a range of settings, from business meetings to social events. It’s a modern wardrobe staple for a reason: easy to wear, easy to style, and endlessly adaptable.

Key Design Differences

Double-breasted jackets typically feature four or six buttons and peak lapels, adding to their formal, structured appearance. Single-breasted suits often come with notch or peak lapels, depending on the desired look. The choice of lapel can influence how broad or narrow the chest appears, and a good tailor will adjust these details to complement your proportions.

A double-breasted suit tends to feel more fitted through the torso and is typically worn closed, which enhances structure but may feel more restrictive if not tailored well. A single-breasted suit is more flexible, easy to wear open or closed, and often more comfortable for everyday movement. It’s also easier to layer and more forgiving for different body shapes. Whatever you choose, your suit will succeed or fail in the cut.

When to Wear Which Suit?

The double-breasted suit belongs to moments of ceremony. They are ideal for the below.

• Formal events
• Weddings
• Special occasions
• Business settings where making a strong impression matters

The single-breasted suit walks between worlds. They are perfect for the below.

• Everyday business wear
• Semi-formal and casual settings
• Versatile day-to-evening outfits
• First-time buyers looking for flexibility

If you’re investing in your first bespoke suit, a single-breasted style offers more mileage. If you’re building a collection or want something with more presence, a double-breasted jacket could be the right next step.

The Bespoke Advantage – Why Tailoring Matters

Off-the-rack suits can only get you so far. When a suit is tailored specifically for you, it shows.
At Andrew Brookes Tailoring, we work with your shape, posture, and personal style to deliver a suit that’s well made and unmistakably yours.

With us, you get the below.

• Premium fabrics selected from leading mills
• Precise hand-finishing by expert craftsmen
• A tailoring process built around you, your build, your preferences, your lifestyle

Whether you choose a single or double-breasted suit, bespoke tailoring ensures your suit fits properly, moves with you, and looks effortless from every angle.

Conclusion – Your Journey to the Perfect Suit

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer in the single vs double-breasted suit debate. Both styles offer something unique.

If you want sharp lines and all-day versatility, go single-breasted. If you’re aiming for structure and impact, double-breasted may be the one.

Either way, Andrew Brookes Tailoring delivers. Explore our bespoke suits to create a suit that feels just right and reflects who you are wherever you’re headed.

Have questions or want to enquire? Contact us directly on 0131 225 3659 or email mel@andrewbrookes.com