Summer Wedding Suits for Men: A Guide to Cloth and Fit
Summer is the perfect season to marry, with light evenings and the option of open-air venues for the ceremony and reception. Summer weddings tend to run long, often ten or twelve hours from the ceremony to the last dance, and the suit has to hold its shape through all of it. It naturally comes down to three things, cloth, cut and construction.
The Construction
Heat affects how the cloth moves, sun changes how colour appears, and a long day tests whether the construction holds up throughout. A suit that looks right at noon in a church has to hold up just as well at nine in the evening on the dancefloor.
A canvassed construction moves with the body and breathes well, since the layers of the jacket front are stitched rather than glued, so it holds its line from morning through to evening.
The Cloth
Fresco is the most reliable choice for a summer wedding. It is an open-weave worsted that breathes exceptionally well, drapes cleanly and resists creasing better than lighter cloths.
Linen is the obvious summer choice and it earns its reputation for breathability and weight. It creases as the day goes on, and for a relaxed outdoor wedding that is part of the charm. For a formal church ceremony or a long evening reception it requires more attention over a long day.
Lightweight wool, whether a high-twist worsted or a tropical wool, is a lesser-known option that deserves to be considered. It regulates temperature well, resists creasing and gives a cleaner and more formal line than linen. For anyone who wants summer breathability with the precision of a proper suit it is worth serious consideration. For a full breakdown of summer cloth options, see our guide to the best fabrics and materials for a summer suit.
The Colour
Summer light is brighter and more intense than at other times of year and it changes how colour appears, both in person and in photographs. A colour that looks right indoors can look different outdoors, which is worth considering before the day.
Stone, pale grey, light navy and mid blue are the strongest choices. They sit well against most surroundings, look good in photographs and work across most settings. Mid blue, in linen or fresco, has a freshness that suits the height of summer particularly well.
Cream and warm tan suit relaxed outdoor settings such as a country house or a coastal venue, looking natural against grass and sky. The bolder the colour, the more it depends on the cloth and the cut being right. This is especially true of cream. Also see our full guide to wedding suit colours.
The Fit
Fit determines how a suit carries itself. A bespoke suit is cut precisely to body length, chest and trouser rise, with the jacket balanced against the shirt collar.
A three piece is particularly well suited to a warm day. If the jacket comes off during the afternoon the outfit risks losing its coherence; a waistcoat keeps the outfit complete. To learn more on this see our guide to wearing a waistcoat with a suit.
The Suit By Venue
Cloth choice should follow the venue as much as the season, since the right weight and construction for a formal church setting differs from what works for a relaxed outdoor afternoon.
Formal venues. A church wedding or a country house setting places the highest demands on a suit. The occasion calls for cloth with structure and weight, enough to hold a clean line without being heavy. A mid-weight fresco or high-twist worsted in a darker tone sits correctly here and the construction should be canvassed.
Outdoor and garden weddings. Breathability matters more in open air and the suit will be seen in full light all day. Drape matters more too since cloth that moves well looks better outdoors.
Destination and beach weddings. This calls for the lightest end of the cloth spectrum: unlined or half-lined construction, open-weave cloth and enough weight to hold a clean line. Lighter cloths crease more and offer less structure, so it is worth choosing a cloth that wears that well, such as linen. For destination and beach weddings our guide to beach wedding dressing covers the full picture.
Shirt, Tie & Accessories
The shirt and collar set the tone for everything above the jacket. A collar that holds its shape through the day makes a considerable difference. A cutaway or spread collar suits formal settings worn with a tie while a softer collar worn open suits more relaxed venues.
Tie and pocket square should be coordinated tonally rather than matched identically. For both, linen suits most daytime occasions and silk is slightly more formal.
The right shoe follows the venue: for formal settings Oxfords or Derbies, for relaxed outdoor ones a well-chosen brogue or loafer.
Groom or Guest
For the groom, a wedding suit has to look impeccable throughout the day so it can become part of the photographs and memories that remain long afterwards.
For the guest, take your cues from the venue and the dress code. The right cloth, colour and fit make a suit work for the occasion.
Both deserve the precision and individuality that only bespoke tailoring provides.
To explore our tailored wedding suits or discuss a commission for a summer wedding or any other occasion, contact us on +44(0)131 225 3659 or email mel@andrew-brookes.com.
